Rocamadour: A Rich Yet Delicate Cheese Named for a Vertiginous Village in France
One of the stops along the historic pilgrim’s route of Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle is the gravity-defying, vertical village of Rocamadour. Here, the most devout climb the Great Stairway (a set of 216 stone steps) on their knees in order to worship at its crowning jewel, the basilica of Saint-Sauveur. Adjacent to the basilica is the chapel of Notre-Dame, where the revered black Madonna is displayed, a 12th century statue carved out of walnut that is said to have healing powers. Fortunately for the modern day pilgrim, if your knees aren’t up to the task there’s now an elevator to whisk you up to the top of the village to visit these holy sites.
History of cabécou de Rocamadour
A cheese called cabécou de Rocamadour has been in production for centuries in this region and the pilgrims who worshipped at the site would have enjoyed this petit chèvre alongside other local specialties. By the 15th century the visitors had spread its reputation and the cheese’s popularity had grown so much that the dairy farmers and peasants were allowed to use the cheese as a form of currency to pay both their taxes and the rent on their land.
Historically, many small goat cheese pucks produced on farms in the southwest of France were called cabécou, which translates as “little chèvre,” a name that combines two words in the old Occitan language: cabra, which means goat, and cou, which is the diminutive. One could find, and still can, cheeses named cabécou du Périgord, cabécou de Livernon and cabécou du Fel, just to name a few.
Twenty five years ago the Rocamadour producers decided to distinguish themselves from their regional cousins by dropping “cabécou,” and asked for and were granted an Appellation d’Origine Controlée (AOC) in 1996. It is now simply called Rocamadour, and the AOC rules dictate several aspects of the cheese, for instance, which breeds are used (Alpine and Saanen), where the animals are grazing, their diet, the cheese’s weight and size, and how long it’s aged.
Modern Day Rocamadour
Despite being so tiny (not much bigger than a silver dollar), Rocamadour is full of personality. It weighs in at just over one ounce per piece and is one of the smallest goat cheeses produced in France, however there’s an enormous amount of flavor and character packed into each pocket-sized disc. Small cheeses age quickly, and Rocamadour is no exception. After a mere 6 or 7 days of affinage (ripening), it is tender, slightly firm in the center, pale ivory colored, and tastes of sweet hazelnuts and milk. After a few more days the flavors intensify and it develops a creamline underneath its thin rind, which eventually spreads into its heart, becoming so runny it’s often sold in a small wooden box for protection. Rocamadour aged for more than 3 weeks begins to dry out, creating a densely textured cheese. The color darkens and the flavor becomes strong, earthy and goat-y.
How to Enjoy Rocamadour
Although wonderful to eat on its own, Rocamadour is also used in regional dishes. It is passed under the broiler on slices of bread, drizzled with honey (or not), and served on salads, or wrapped in bacon strips and slowly warmed in a sauté pan until the bacon is crisp and the cheese inside is meltingly soft. I’ve seen it marinated in olive oil and fresh herbs to create a soft, spreadable cheese, or encased in puff pastry and baked. It is also common to see Rocamadour added to dishes with walnuts or smoked duck breast, both popular ingredients in the southwest.
The locals like to pair Rocamadour with Cahors wine, however, I like to serve it with something a bit lighter such as whites from Bourgogne or the Loire Valley. If red is your preference, I suggest trying one from the Loire Valley or a fruity Beaujolais. The French website that promotes AOC products also notes that it pairs well with Guinness!